Throughout December we're having a look back at some of our favourite trips from 2016 - just last month Darren visited Kenya and was blown away by the wildlife of this magical destination. But he found a lot more besides, with beautiful landscapes, fabulous beaches along the coast, superb places to stay and he even managed a lively night out in vibrant Nairobi!
On Safari in Kenya
Over the last few weeks I've been completely enthralled by David Attenborough's 'Planet Earth II' series, and while I wouldn't class myself as a wildlife buff I get very excited on safari. In November I spent four nights on safari and four nights on the beach, which is the ideal mix for part-time Attenborough's like me!
On this trip I flew by light aircraft from Nairobi to the Masai Mara - I've been to Kenya a few times before and on my last visit I had a 4x4 vehicle to take in three different areas of the country, starting in Samburu in the north of Kenya before heading to the Great Rift Valley and finally the Masai Mara. Travelling by light aircraft takes out the longer drives (although I do really enjoy seeing the local towns & villages and the beautiful scenery from ground level), so I was on the Masai Mara by lunchtime on my first day. The wildlife sightings had started even before I'd hit the ground, with zebra and wildebeest visible from the plane as we came in to our airstrip - this was a sign of things to come, as over the next few days I saw more wildlife (with some superb up-close sightings) than I could have hoped for!
On the way from the airstrip to my camp I counted a total of 11 lions, mainly snoozing in the heat of the day and looking well-fed - my driver explained that the migration which usually takes vast numbers of zebra, wildebeest and other animals from the Mara to the Serengeti in September and October had actually crossed back in to Kenya recently, so animal numbers had been boosted - and the lions were taking full advantage! Personally I adore big cats, so you can never have too many lions, but I've not had much success with leopard over the years as they're a lot more elusive. This trip was different, though - our superb driver spoilt us with not one but TWO fantastic leopard sightings, one hiding in the long grass before crossing a small river, and next morning our second leopard was snoozing in a tree before climbing down backwards and moving to the shade beneath the tree. Both leopards were within 30 yards of us!
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The Masai Mara
For me when I hear the word 'safari' I instantly think 'Masai Mara' - there's nowhere else quite like it! On this trip I spent two nights at each end of the Masai Mara, starting towards the eastern end at the beautiful Sarova Mara Game Camp - this is a great introduction to the Mara, and ideal if you want the experience of a tented camp but with the reassurance of a larger property. Tents here have solid roofs so feel nicely sturdy while still being a tent - mine even had a small family of mongoose just outside!
I then moved across the plains of the Masai Mara (which was an experience in itself with huge herds of elephants) to the western area, on the banks of the Mara River. Although it's not a big distance geographically the areas are very different, both in terms of the wildlife and also the landscapes - even the climate is different! The eastern areas felt more open and were home to herds of zebras, large numbers of giraffe and also one of the best rhino sightings I've ever had. The western areas have more rivers and forests so attract different wildlife, and I saw a fabulous cheetah teaching her cubs how to stalk prey - although they seemed more interested in playing with each other! My home here was the Ashnil Mara Camp, with some of the largest tents I've come across on the Masai Mara - my tent overlooked the river itself, and the noise of the hippos in the bend of the river below the tent was amazing!
The absolute highlight of my time on the Masai Mara was when I was able to see a crossing of the Mara River by 10,000 or so migrating wildebeest and zebra - this is the kind of stuff you only see on programmes such as 'Planet Earth II', but our excellent driver could tell that the animals were preparing to cross, and he knew where to head to. After around an hour of huge herds congregating on the banks of the river, they set off together, taking around 15 minutes for all of them to cross successfully. I was able to capture some of the stampede on video - check it out here!
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Beaches of Mombasa
After a few days on safari I was ready to hit the beach - Kenya's Indian Ocean coastline is lined with stunning beaches, and I headed for the North Coast of Mombasa, a fairly short transfer from the airport. I stayed at the fabulous Sarova Whitesands Beach Resort & Spa and spent a few day chilling out and doing very little indeed! The resort is perfect for me - quiet areas for chilling out but a livelier atmosphere in other areas too, so the best of both. Their beach bar is amazing, and just down the beach is another great option for a few sundowner Tusker beers, Yul's beach bar.
If you prefer more chill and less party then head to the South Coast of Mombasa - Diani Beach is amongst the most beautiful beaches I've ever been to anywhere - ever - with the whitest, softest sand. The atmosphere along this stretch of coast is just perfect for relaxation, and there are some great hotel options here too. My favourite for total relaxation is the low-key Indian Ocean Beach Resort, set on a fabulous section of Diani Beach and with whitewashed traditional buildings giving it a local feel - spot-on!
On the way back to the UK I had a night in Nairobi, which isn't somewhere that's high on many people's itineraries but there's lots to see and do here, and with the city in the middle of a boom it's a surprisingly vibrant place - I stayed at the Sankara Hotel in the Westlands area of the city, and had a great night out in some of the local bars. I can highly recommend Brew Bistro with its rooftop bar and microbrewery - working my way through their beer menu during Happy Hour seemed like a great idea at the time, but the hangover on the flight home wasn't ideal!
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I've been lucky enough to visit East Africa a number of times over the years, but each time is always different. Kenya is a truly magical destination, and on this trip I had the best wildlife experiences I've ever had (I never thought I'd be lucky enough to see a migration of wildebeest) - which is why it was my Top Trip of 2016!
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